Q: What is the difference between a forester and an arborist?
A: Most folks who decide to pursue a career in the woods will focus their studies on either Forestry or Arboriculture. Typically, a forester is involved in the management of large acreages of land. They are trained to look at the big picture and often know very little about specific tree problems. Arborists were originally called urban foresters, tree doctors, or tree surgeons. They focus on the care of individual trees and often know very little about forest management. I consider myself lucky to have had a backgound in both areas, which has allowed me to become licensed as both a Forester and an Arborist.

Q: My trees look fine to me, why do they need pruning?
A: Regular tree pruning is much like doing preventative maintenance on your car. Proper pruning can fix future growth problems, change the shape of the tree, improve the overall appearance of the tree, and remove dangerous deadwood allowing the tree to heal faster. For more information on tree pruning see ISA's Guide to Pruning Young Trees and ISA's Guide to Pruning Mature Trees.

Q: When is the best time of year to have my trees pruned?
A: Proper tree pruning can really be done at any time of the year. Winter is probably the best time of year as wounds have a chance to heal before the spring flush. There is less risk of insect and disease exposure in the winter and the lack of foliage gives the arborist a better view of the overall tree.

Q: Im thinking about having my trees topped or reduced in height?
A: This is almost always a bad idea. No reputable tree service is going to give you an estimate for tree topping. In the early days of arboriculture, it was thought that reducing the height of trees made them safer and healthier. Studies have proven the topped trees often die from these wounds, and many times end up taller then they would have otherwise been. Please don't do this to your trees as you will forever ruin their appearance and most surely regret it. For more information see ISA's Guide to Why Topping Hurts Trees.

Q: I have a tree XX inches across in my back yard. How much would it cost to have it removed?
A: Its difficult for me to give estimates over the phone. It usually has more to do with what is adjacent to the tree then the size of the tree itself. For example a large tree in the middle of a wide open field is obviously easier to remove then a small tree hanging over the roof of a house. Most reputable companies base their estimated price on how long it will take to complete the job.

Q: The tree in my back yard is dead. How long can I wait before taking it down?
A: A pine tree will often fall within a year after dying and large dead oak trees have been known to stand dead for decades before falling to the ground. However, this is a dangerous game of procrastination. I've seen high winds and ice bring down whole limbs large enough to harm children, pets, or anyone unfortunate enough to be underneath. Typically, a tree that has been dead for a long time is more difficult and dangerous to remove, thereby making it more expensive. Not sure if your tree is dead or if you should have it removed, see ISA's Guide to Hazardous Tree Identification.

Q: My neighbor Billy Bob just bought a chainsaw and said he would do the work for $$. Will you match his price?
A: I give my customers the most reasonable estimate that I can. I understand that I am competing against a large number of folks for a small number of clients, but I also know that there is always someone who will do the work cheaper. I like to think that I am the most reasonably priced company of those that offer a high quality of service and still pay their taxes. Since my business is small, I dont have the labor costs and overhead that many larger businesses do, and can often offer a lower price.

Q: Why should it matter to me if the person I hire is not licensed and insured?
A: As is usually true with mechanics, doctors, accountants, lawyers, and anyone offering a service; you usually get what you pay for. Obviously, an unlicensed, uninsured tree service can operate at a much lower cost. This is risky business as tree work in combination with Murphy's Law always has the potential to cause damage to property. Ive heard many stories of trees being dropped on houses, cars, fences, etc. and your insurance company will probably not cover damages caused by someone who is unlicensed and uninsured.

Q: How can I find other licensed and insured arborists?
A: Owning a chainsaw does not make someone an Arborist. Maryland law requires those operating as a tree service, arborist, or tree expert to be licensed and insured. Very few advertised tree services put forth the time and money required to become fully licensed and insured. Unfortunately, the MD Dept of Natural Resources has neither the time nor the manpower to enforce these laws. They do however, maintain a web page of those who are licensed (http://dnrweb.dnr.state.md.us/forests/oflists/lte/treeexpert.html). Don’t be afraid to ask when getting an estimate to see proof of insurance. Those who have gone to the trouble and expense are more then happy to show you proof.

Q: Can I pay you to cut the tree down (or prune the tree) and I take care of cleaning up the brush and debris?
A: Yes, this is a common request. This also usually cuts the cost of the work in half as cleaning up the resulting wood and debris is very time consuming. Im also happy to cut downed wood into firewood for those who wish to keep it.

Q: Are estimates always free?
A: I never charge for an estimate and even if I cant help you, I try to point you in the direction of someone who can. Its always a good idea to get multiple estimates and Im happy to provide you with the contact info of other reputable foresters and arborists.

Q: How can I pay for the work being done?
I accept cash, check, and will soon be accepting credit card payments. I usually offer a discount for all customers who pay in cash upon completion of the work.